Notes: Vineyard Site Selection and Preparation for Southern Vancouver Island

Do not be put off by statements that Southern Vancouver Island is marginal for growing grapes. With the right grape varieties, the long cool season can bring out the very best in wine. Many of the outstanding wines of Europe come from "marginal" growing areas.

Site Selection
This discussion is mainly for the Saanich Peninsula, but most of the criteria also apply to the Cowichan area of S. Van. Is., and the Gulf Islands. For prospective commercial growers, there is much more land suitable for grape growing in the Cowichan area, and that region has slightly more heat units. However, for wineries seeking on-site sales, the Saanich Peninsula has closer access to tourists and the Victoria population. The Gulf Islands also have significant tourist potential.

1. Warm sites: Southern Vancouver Island has only just enough heat for grapes. Therefore only warm sites are suitable for serious growing. On the Saanich Peninsula, this means the central region, approximately, east-west between East and West Saanich Roads, and north-south between Royal Oak and McTavish Roads. This includes the northern part of Saanich municipality and much of Central Saanich. The east coastal region including Sidney is especially cool, as is to a lesser degree near Saanich Inlet. This is only a generalization; there are significant local variations and there are very successful vineyards outside this area. Central Saanich has prepared a map showing the best grape growing areas in more detail. On the Gulf Islands there are large local variations; the near-coast areas tend to be cool, especially the east facing coasts.

This discussion assumes that there is a choice of site. If you already own the land, don't be put off by the site not being ideal. Wine grapes can be grown in most areas of southeastern Van. Is. if the earliest ripening varieties are selected and there is good site preparation.

2. Slope direction: South, southwest, or southeast facing slopes provide the maximum heat. The direction is especially important for steep slopes.
Moderately sloped sites are best for grape growing. Avoid low areas where frost can collect and morning mist reduces temperatures.
Grapes can be grown on steep slopes, but operating tractors and other equipment can be a problem unless the ground is terraced, and there may be soil erosion unless mulch or ground cover is used.

3. Drainage: Grapes need good soil drainage. Clay-rich bottom land is especially poor. Drain tiles can remedy the drainage where there is substantial clay and little slope. However, they can be expensive for large areas.

4. Soil type: The best wine comes from grapes grown in moderate to poor soil. This is evident from the stony poor soils of some of the best grape growing areas of Europe. Some organic material is desirable, but rich soil produces too much rapid vegetative growth and low quality wine. For small vineyards, sand may be added to clay soil.
Grape roots can grow up to 2 metres deep, so soil that deep is desirable (see note below about deep soil preparation). However there are successsful Southern Vancouver Island vineyards on very thin soil.

5. Irrigation: Summers are very dry on Southern Vancouver Island, and most growers in the region irrigate, especially when vines are young. Less frequent but deep irrigation is needed for mature vines with deeply penetrating roots. Some clay and organic material will help to hold water in the dry season; very sandy and thin soils require substantial irrigation. Check that you have an adequate water supply for the number of vines you plan to grow and your soil type.

6. Full sun: Grapes need full sun all day. There must be no shade from trees and other sources in the SE to SW directions. The sun is highest in the south (at noon), so trees can be a little higher in that direction and not provide shade compared to the southeast and southwest where the sun is lower. In checking for shade problems, remember that sun is needed in the spring and fall when the sun is lower than mid-summer. At the spring and fall equinoxes in our area, the sun is about 20 degrees above horizontal in the SE and SW directions.

Site Preparation

1. Shade: If necessary, remove or top shading trees, and trees with roots that will reach the vineyard.

2. Clearing: Clear present vegetation. Weeds will be less of a problem if all vegetation is completely removed or killed initially.

3. Field flattening: Flatten and smooth local irregularities, and remove large rocks that will make working the vineyard difficult.

4. Drainage: Install drainage tiles if necessary. If drainage is only a minor problem, drainage ditches that divert surface water may be enough.

5. Deep tilling: Deep till to as much as 2 metres, especially if there is a sharp boundary below the upper thin soil layer. Roots may stop at such a boundary. If the vineyard is not too large, wide trenching and filling along the rows with a backhoe does a good job. For large vineyards, special large deep tilling machines may be contracted. If cost is not a problem or the vineyard is small, some organic material (and perhaps lime etc.) may be mixed into very sandy poor soil, or sand into clay soil during the preparation.

6. Row direction,Usually rows are north-south to give even sun to both sides. However, rows up and down the slope will assist in free air movement that can reduce mildew and some other diseases, and reduce the potential for frost pockets

7. Row and vine spacing. The optimum row and vine spacing depends on the grape type and soil. For vinifera and moderate soil, common spacings are 2 metre vine spacing and 2.5 metre rows. On poor soil (low vigor), the minimum spacings can be less, i.e., 1.2 metre vine spacing and 2 metre row spacing (but leaves little room for equipment between rows). Most hybrids are more vigorous and need more space, as do vinifera in rich soil, for example up to 3 metres between vines. The spacing between rows should be at least equal to the final vine heights to minimize shading.

7. Soil analysis: Check what Ph and nutrients are optimum for your grape type. Get a soil analysis from a number of areas in the field. Lime is usually required, especially for vinifera in our common acid soils. Most hybrids prosper in somewhat more acid soil. Grapes require less nitrogen than most other crops; often little or no nitrogen addition is recommended.

8. Deer Proofing: Deer that eat grape vine leaves and young shoots can be a serious problem in many areas of Southern Vancouver and Gulf Islands. To them all varieties of grape vines are delicious, and they can do a lot of damage in short time, especially to young plants. Many techniques are available to deter them, scent repellents, noise repellents, reflective tape, etc. (try searching the web). However, none seem to work for an extended time. The only sure way is to fence to a height of at least 2 metres, and to be really sure, 2.5 metres. Special galvanized mesh deer fencing has a larger mesh at the top than the bottom. The bottom mesh may be fine enough to keep rabbits out if it is tight to the ground (they can eat young plants). A low cost alternative to metal fencing is light plastic mesh. It can be used with very light posts, but it has low durability and a short lifetime.

9. Birds and Racoons: In preparation of the vineyard, it is well worth planning for birds and racoons that love to eat the grapes. Limited bird protection is provided by speakers with bird distress sounds, by flashing metal strips, and a number of other devices. However, most such methods are only temporary and really effective protection requires netting either along the rows sides or complete coverage overhead. Racoons may be trapped and large dogs can be an effective deterrent. However, the most effective racoon protection is a well-designed one or two wire electric fence.

Grape Types and Diseases

Suitable grape types: Substantial grape growing is quite new on Southern Vancouver Island, so there are no really standard, tested varieties. Numerous varieties are being tried. Generally white wine grapes require less heat than red, so there are many more whites being grown than reds. Ortega (white) is probably the most widely grown grape in the region at present. It is a fairly recent German cross of Muller Thurgau (Riesling x Sylvaner) and Siegerrebe (Madeleine Angevine x Gwurtztraminer), apparently named after Spanish philosopher Jose Ortega y Gasset. It is very early ripening and is producing excellent wine. It is quite frost suceptible so not grown much in the Okanagan or in eastern Canada, but there should be no problem on Southern Vancouver Island. There are at least 6 other white grapes being grown very successfully (e.g., Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Bacchus, etc.). Successful red grapes are more difficult to find. The common reds of warmer climates (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot etc.) commonly do not ripen well here. A number of vineyards are growing the cool-climate classic Pinot Noir, although it has the reputation of being difficult to grow and difficult in the winery. There are many different clones of this grape; select an early ripening clone and perhaps an early ripening root stock. Several other early reds being grown are Marechal Foch, and Leon Millot (related hybrids), Agria (Hungarian vinifera) and Regent (German, very disease resistant; debate as to whether it should considered vinifera).
Grafting to different root stocks can give improved characteristics to many varieties, i.e., resistance to disease especially phylloxera, adaptation to different soil types, earlier ripening, slower more manageable growth etc.

Diseases
Most wine grapes grown are vinifera (the grapes of Europe) and thus are susceptible to North American diseases. Although our dry summer climate minimizes disease problems, powdery mildew (a dry climate mildew) requires spraying at least with sulphur (usually considered organic), and several other diseases can occur. If you wish to minimize disease probems, hybrids are preferred (crosses of European and American grapes). The devastating grape vine pest phylloxera (a root louse) has not yet occurred in our area. This may be because of our climate, but it may be that it just has not got here yet. If you wish to be safe, plant vines grafted to phylloxera-resistant root stocks.

Organic growing
Especially organic growers should consider hybrid vines (crosses of European Vinifera and native North American grape types) that have good disease resistance. Although scorned and forbidden to be grown in part of Europe, some hybrid varieties make really excellent wine.

Some helpful books
1. Management Guide for Grapes: For Commercial Growers
British Columbia Ministry of Agriculture and Food, and Association of British Columbia Grape Growers
-An excellent basic source of growing information, although in places it is a little technical for the new grower
Available for sale at VIGGA meetings

2. From Vines to Wines: The complete guide to growing grapes and making your own wine (3rd ed.).
Jeff Cox, Storey Books, ISBN 1-58017-105-2
-An excellent introduction to grape growing and wine making. It is somewhat oriented to eastern U.S.

3. The Grape Grower: A guide to organic viticulture
Lon Rombough, Chelsea Green Publishing, ISBN 1-890132-82-9
-All aspects of grape growing by a well-respected grower with many years of research and experience
There is an organic or near-organic emphasis, but non-organic methods are included
Rombough specializes in table grapes, but most of the book content is applicable to wine grapes.

4. Starting a New Vineyard
Pamphlet by Saanich master grower John Brickett (available at WIGA meetings)

Also see WIGA library for a wide range of reference sources (at WIGA meetings)
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Roy Hyndman